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Solo bicycle journey into the Chinese country side of summer 2002.
I decided to write this essay of my journey two years after because I found myself to write easily when reflecting upon a fond memory then to write as it happens. Sitting in the back room of my parents property in Strathfeildsaye I want to record it while still afresh in my mind.
A last minute expedition into what was unknown to me, finishing up my first term of teaching and onto a summer vacation. Instead of taking a paid flight back to Australia I opted to stay in Shanghai but I didn't want to travel the usual way. I didn't want to go to places that is crammed with western tourists as I came to China to see Chinese people. There have been a lot of people who have gone on bike journeys who have spent months preparing body and routes but I decided to do this one week before the vacation started. I bought a mountain bike which seemed to be constructed of iron because it weighed a ton unlike Olympic light weight bikes. Local Shanghainese seem to find a person purchasing a bike in a bike store to be enthralling because this simple task pulled a huge crowd into the store. Yes foreigners do know how to ride a bicycle and I guess this was an amazing sight for them. As I was mounting a bike rack and trying to step backwards I kept backing into someone because there were about twenty people watching me buy a bike in this shop.
The first day at six in the morning, an over packed bike with a gallon of water, a three man tent ,a badly strapped to the rack back pack and I was ready to go. The day before, I paid these young construction workers an equivalent of five US dollars to make me a wooden toolbox. Why so cheap? I started with that amount expecting them to ask for more money because I didn't know how much I should pay them. But they accepted it and the reaction on their faces was if they've struck gold. So don't accuse me of slave labour because I would happily pay them more if only they'd asked. To an Australian Shanghai is a city unlike any back home as our cities are mainly suburbs that merge into the country. Though this city riding out on a bike would not end and streets that would sling shot me from the opposite direction. I bought a compass for this journey and I only used it trying to get out of Shanghai. There was one crucial road that would've ensured me a quick exit out of the city. It turned out to be fruit and veggie street market day packed with people and an over packed bicycle was difficult to manoeuvre through a thick crowd. Though it was a good place to buy an over priced mango for breakfast. To avoid this street I took a parallel road which was the sling shot I mentioned and put my bearings out of whack. It took three hours or more before I didn't see a high apartment complex.
After three months of living in Shanghai I only visited one place outside which was another city Hang Zhou but never the country and I had enough tourist attractions so this journey was to venture out into common China. Where I was going no travel book could assist me, no back packing hostel with western tourists and no sleazy night clubs. Welcome to rural China. My first stop a little garden with a man made pond and pagoda for a mango break and confronted by a security guard. With a huge cheap labour force China has a security guard for everything from schools to apartments and here for a small public garden. He stopped me and indicated to see my passport, he was stunned mainly of my over packed bike and wanted to know what was inside. He wasn't the KGB but easing his curiosity of me and simply just nosey. It had just reached roughly lunch time and the heat had already reached about thirty degrees and above. A Chinese summer is brutal and at the end of the day the back of my hands were purple as it was the only thing not covered.
What to wear; my lousy attempt to be inconspicuous was to wear a white long sleeve business shirt with the collar up, a terry toweling hat and sun glasses. All to conceal my racial origins and it wasn't for safety concern just trying to avoid people staring at me. The Chinese highway is partitioned for bicycles and the Shanghai surroundings is perfectly flat with no rolling hills whatsoever. As this is my first time in the country of China I didn't know what to expect as Australia is all bush when you leave the suburbs and farms are just grazing areas. Though this was different as it was all marsh farms and constant population all the way through with triple story farm houses. I found there was no need for any supply of food as a never ending assortments of ma and pa stores to buy from. To combat the heat and to give myself and an incentive to keep riding was to have an ice cream break and some of the ice cream had real prunes inside complete with the seed.
Mid afternoon lunch break was my first encounter of a crowd and this was an industrial town with nothing interesting for tourists and indicating the reaction I received not many foreigners come out here. Covered in road dirt and tasting it whilst grit was in my teeth I sat myself down on the table as the crowd grew larger. My bike was outside and I didn't lock it because I figured that the large crowd staring at it would stop someone stealing it. If seeing a foreigner wasn't enough they found my bike just as interesting. Everyone here rides a bike so I thought it was no big deal but a bike owned by a foreigner is an amazing thing. Whenever I stopped for lunch in any of these towns I would surely draw the population into the restaurant. Every restaurant I would eat at I'd order fried rice for two reasons. One was I could only just say fried rice in Chinese and fear of eating the unknown and looking back was pretty sissy of me. One guy had an English Chinese dictionary and as they always assume I was a bloody yank. In Chinese I proudly told him I was an Australian but because of my crap pronunciation I resorted to drawing a picture of Australia.
Now riding for the rest of the day and getting close to evening was finding a place to pitch my tent became a fruitless task. I figured that a good spot would be a nice flat area of grass even on the side of a road off the highway turned out to be impossible. Every bit of land was cultivated even a scrap of dirt was farmed or the marsh rice patties indicated that I am going to do what I was dreading, I am going to somehow find a hotel. I had to stay in a hotel and destroy my budget and plans of spending a month which dwindled down to a week because of the price of hotels. My fear wasn't breaking the budget or trying to haggle over the price but with a limited vocabulary and a pitiful pronunciation it was going to be hard for me to locate a low budget hotel. I saw a billboard which seemed to be a tourist area of water towns which was refreshing after the boring industrial towns. This turned out to be a new tourist town on the Yang Chang lake as all the buildings, shops and apartments were under construction. Which brings on the anxiety whether they had built a hotel yet and nowhere to pitch my tent. After going up and down the roads as the women farmers were riding home I was lucky to stumble across one hotel. Just haggled for a little price difference but I guess that being such a quiet town and the only guest they needed some profit. Mind you there was no back packers' hostel because if this place is not located in travel guides then there is no hostel.
One good thing of not sleeping in a tent and staying in a hotel is a bath, twelve hours of riding with scorching heat and road dirt all I wanted to do was submerge in water. Hands painted purple from the sun and teeth covered in grit I was saw all over and an hour lying in the bath was better than heaven. A good omen is when on the basin in the bathroom has a brand name of "Jason," you know that this is going to be a good trip. Because this was a lake view hotel the nearby restaurants were on the banks of this marsh lake. To give you an indication what time in life this happened was during the soccer world cup as the locals were glued watching their team played for the first time in the world cup. While other people were setting off fireworks and not only for soccer would they do this but any given reason is good enough for fireworks and firecrackers. From marriage to a new apartment anytime is worth setting off a strand of fire crackers even if it is six in the morning on a sunday.
An early morning start, refreshed from a good night's sleep and due to the facing reality that I will have to stay in hotels and this will be a huge bite into my budget I had to change my destination. Originally I told people I was going to ride almost from Shanghai to Beijing and camping was my ticket but after the first day and realising I will have to stay in hotels I chose another place nearby called Tai Hu (Tai lake). First was to past the near by water town and as there are steps going straight into the water for easy access for washing. A good place to draw methinks, a few interruptions of locals washing pots and pans and an overbearing song played by a those mechanical children's rides in front of supermarkets. The song was a little Chinese girl singing the Chinese equivalent to A B C, "Yi Er San etc. This town was a barge port and the highway follows the river or canal onto the next city of Su Zhou which is famous for its water canals.
The reason for wanting to improve my Chinese and study as much as I can is not for getting around nor trying to haggle for lower prices but because of this one entire experience. As I have mentioned before that the highway is partitioned for bicycles; when I rode closer to the towns and where the traffic builds up other cyclists and motorcyclists would appear along side of me. We would try to communicate with each other but no English from them and no Chinese from me. Though there is another way of communicating non-verbally and that entire week was all sign language and drawing diagrams with each other. I assumed the obvious questions would most likely to have been were "where do you come from" and "where are you going?" Yet I would have done anything to have instant Chinese lessons just to have conversations with the other cyclists. The only English I did hear often was "hello" and if I were to ride without holding onto the handle bars then it was "hello, very good!" Even though Chinese ride bikes everyday they don't know how to ride without hands on the handle bars.
Riding a bike in China you will see some characters, first the majority of people ride bikes that miraculously defy gravity which they ride so bloody slow it is amazing how they stay upright. Then you have the two riders who are engaged in conversation and riding even more slower then everybody else. They take up the entire bicycle partition of the highway and everybody is stuck behind them and it is usually old ladies who do this. Or the two buddies, young men with arms around each other's shoulders while riding who make it difficult to slip in between. In this country men can walk down the street arm in arm and even hand in hand and that is not gay but using deodorant is. Occasionally you'll see the women on a scooter with the blow dried hair from hell that has the tinge of bleach. Though my favourite is the old guy on a 50's style bike going two kilometres an hour and a cigarette hanging from his lips.
A diet consisting of ice cream on the hour, fried ice and cheap Chinese beer because it's refreshing and takes the aches out. Su Zhou was a strange place to enter, coming from the highway I had to go through a maze of a construction of an elevated freeway. Stopping for directions I asked this guy through the means of a map by using my finger to indicate where I want to go. He pointed where to go and said in English "foolish," despite everyone rides a bike here no one seems to go long distances. There have been other people in the past who rode through China mainly to raise money. They had a support van and media coverage but I was all alone on a month's salary and no personal masseuse. Another city and I am already lost but a good way to see the sights when you get lost as I rode through the back roads. I saw the the famous canals but regretting for not taking photos and don't know why I didn't. I should go back one day to photograph and draw Su Zhou.
The one thing I admire about the Chinese is their resourcefulness to make money, only in Su Zhou have I found in the heat of summer along the main roads are guys with an erne of ice tea for cyclists. Back on track and I found my way to Tai Hu another late mid afternoon break and my first an encounter of someone who spoke English, the daughter of the restaurant owner. It's always refreshing to speak not just my own language but without using sign language.
Public toilets; now I can handle squatters only in a house where it is clean but no way can I handle public toilets that are squatters. I don't know about you but I like to be concealed from the view of others when I need to sit down. Chinese toilets are very open with little half way doors or even worse no door at all. Call me deity but I need privacy, though when attempting to do it squatting I really don't want any local watching me and saying "gee, those foreigners really don't know how to go to the toilet."
For the rest of the day was constant riding, constant stares from passer by's and the occasional hello's from afar. How to scare a Chinese toddler; allow someone from not just a different race but a race which the child has never seen before, parents love taking their kids photo with me despite the kid is terrified of me. Coming from a multicultural country it's hard to imagine seeing someone from a completely different race. This country is only Chinese and even though the adults have seen white people on TV the toddlers doesn't know what I am and therefore things I am the Boogie man. One child wouldn't open his eyes when I was near him hoping that I would disappear because I was just too strange to look at. China is the place where you go to to pretend to be Princess Diana, you're going to be photographed with or without your knowledge. I can understand why China is over populated because their children are extremely cute. Older kids would point and yell out "foreigner, foreigner" whether they were on a bike or on a bus I couldn't hide from them. I am a freak who was in the unlikeliest spot to be in which was a non-foreign tourists area of China.
Coming up to Tai Hu which happens to be a very large lake, was a series of Chinese domestic tourists parks for swimming. It was the quiet season and not a soul was in these parks and I tried to get the guard to allow me to go swimming. It was a hot day, no Chinese to stare at me, body saw from riding especially my arse and no I can't go swimming. I used the all Australian persuasive expression "oh, c'arn!" This means "oh, come on" for those unfamiliar with Australian lingo. I have been to many domestic tourists parks in China and what I worked out is that if you have a beautiful area of nature then you close it off and you charge people to enter. Capitalism at its best. Unlike Australia, nature is free to enter at your will. So riding off and saying to myself "bugger this for a joke," I just figured I'll go swimming somewhere else but this lake had this annoying long grass along the entire bank, no white sand and just didn't look suitable for swimming.
After riding half a dozen bridges and over the island's hills where I could not be bothered to ride and just push with a man on large tricycle telling me off for being such a wimp. I guess that was what he was saying to me as he had a heavy load but I did ride virtually a hundred kilometres on that day and the day before. This island was a little farming village with fruit selling women who insisted that their peach was better then each others and I needed to buy theirs. Well that too was a guess but the Chinese always tell me that is what they normally say even though they all selling the same exact thing. Like the day before getting close to the evening I had to find a place to sleep and as before every inch of land is cultivated with nowhere to pitch my tent. So yet again a hotel is a must but this time I really want a hotel, I have been riding longer that day and a bath is a must. This is where you had to use your little voice inside your head, I don't know about but I have one and it directed precisely to a hotel. It told me what I needed to find one by saying follow the signs which say hotel in English. Again a long rewarding bath submerging my body for about an hour and still allowed to take my bike into the room.
I decided to spend one day on this island in the middle of the enormous lake and first thing I wanted to draw is the tower on top the hill. Locking my bike I get harassed by this woman, in non-verbal language was saying "eat at my restaurant, eat at my restaurant," I replied back non-verbally "I will go and draw then I'll eat." Off I go to this towering temple, when I draw it takes awhile not just the actual sketching but finding a place to draw and I would have taken at least two hours. I return and there she was waiting for me holding her umbrella against the sun and pretty keen to have me at her restaurant. I have to eat and I have to go somewhere so why not go to her restaurant. To describe a country restaurant is a concrete clad shell with someone asleep in the corner during off peak and busiest times are smoky and loud. Verbally asked for fried rice which is my safe meal then she non-verbally tells me to eat this tadpole fish thing what the hell give it a go and some other thing I can't remember. She should me the kitchen and asked if I wanted this fish that flies on it and I hate fish with flies on it and said no thanks. She'd figured that being a lot taller than her I must eat a lot of food to survive or she needs me to pay the lease. Over this period of time having non-verbal communication I discuss where I rode and where I come from. I introduce my sketchbook to her and her husband and insisted I draw her at how long will it take I said half an hour.
To understand how people in the country view the western world is that poverty does not exist because where all as rich as Bill Gates. If ever venturing into the country side always negotiate the price of the meal when you order it. Because I asked how much it will cost and she upped the price several times. There was no need to turn this ugly you simply make a compromise with them, the price was knocked a lot and they threw in a bottle of beer. Because I've seen people get really nasty when they experience this and there is no need for it. People out here just negotiate the price of retail from food to products and what ever price I paid it would be cheaper then ever if I was to pay what it would be in Australia. Besides I got a drawing of her and the beer was a nice touch to keep me happy.
The rest of the day was a slow ride around the island getting in the sights and just taking easy to give my body a rest. The next two days I am not quite sure what happened on what day as another restaurant experience too was worth remembering. After leaving the island and going through Su Zhou again as it was the city which is the only to enter the island. I diverted my plan to go north to re-enter Shanghai to go through different towns. Most of the highway is pretty boring this time with only blue trucks to look at and the occasional small town on the highway. I thought if I go to the most quiet restaurant in the town I could eat peacefully. Hmm, it was not going to happen at all. I pull up and sat myself down and again asked for my sure safety meal of fried rice, the girl looked at me for awhile slightly confused and then shrugged her shoulders. Gradually people would come and sit down and not order anything then soon a few more people came. Soon after more people somehow the word had spread that I was in the restaurant. I am a nobody I am not Princess Di but important enough for the whole town to come and see me eat. The girl returned with my meal, there was a reason for her confusion I must have mispronounce fried rice for fish head soup. I am not the type of person that makes a seen of "this is not what I ordered and I refuse to it!" I too shrugged my shoulders and said "what the hell," and just enjoyed it. By that time even more people have swamped the quiet restaurant in amazement of my chop stick ability. This one guy goes outside and says something to someone who runs off and pretty soon the daughters come to watch me. I guess what happened was he ran out to his friend and said "quick get the kids, there is a foreigner here, he's using chopsticks and they can speak English to him!"
The young girls were just too shy of to speak English to me and only gained the courage to say "where you from?" This is where the art of non-verbal communication occurs as I was having an in depth conversation with most of them. They asked me where am I going and where have I been and I showed them on my route on my map. One of them said " wow this guy here he goes to Shanghai a lot but he rides a motorbike but you are on a push bike." Then I mentioned that I was an artist and one of the young guys said "I am too and up their is one of my paintings." By the end of the meal it was hard to leave because I was the centre of attention and they were too curios of me. I ordered water to fill my bottle and normally on a really hot day and sweating from riding an ice cold glass of water is ideal. But Chinese don't like ice cold water on a hot day they prefer boiling hot water on a boiling hot day.
Making my way to the next town to stay over night and being a city a little smaller than Su Zhou, Chang Su and this time finding a cheap hotel was failure. I only could find the main large hotel where it cost double for me to sleep, the other hotels where smaller but this one had the grand entrance with bell boys. I don't know how often the would get foreigners but any that stay at this hotel would not be the usual back packer nor a guy on an over packed bike covered in road dirt. The bell boys had a hard time trying to undo my octopus straps and probably wondering why a rich person like me because we are all rich in their eyes has come along on a bike and not a limousine. This hotel had more class because they would let me keep my bike in the room over night and I had to lock it outside.
After my bath I needed to go for a drink, a hotel like this must have a bar, a tall bottle of beer in a shop is roughly three yuan but in bars a small bottle is thirty yuan. I sat at the bar, ordered a drink and straight away a young girl comes to talk with me but it is only a ploy. She is not a prostitute but bait, twenty one years old, very attractive and limited in English. This type bar is for sleazy business men who go singing in the Karaoke rooms and then whatever in the bar. She asked me "do you like Chinese girls," my reply was "well, Chinese girls are kind of pretty." "Do you want a Chinese girl to go to your room?" At first I realised what she was but with the key phrase "do you want a Chinese girl to go to your room" was when the penny dropped. First, she may be attractive but how do I know the girl she will send to my room isn't. Second, never will I sleep with a prostitute not because I don't need to pay for sex but I find it to be very off putting. Thirdly third world prostitutes simply means bad news and I don't want to catch anything. So I played dumb which is not that hard for me to do and despite what she does for a living she couldn't say outright what she does for a living. I even took her outside and showed her my bike and she forgot all about her job. Over the last couple of years of being in Asia I am tired of prostitutes who hassle me, they assume all foreign men want to pay for sex. It must be because of the old, ugly and over weight losers who come to Asia and want a twenty year old girl that looks twelve. A friend I now say to them if they can speak English, "do we look fat to you?" They reply "no," then we say "do we look old to you?" The prostitute will say "no," "do we look ugly to you?" Again she will say "no," "then what makes you think that we want to pay for sex?"
The next day seeing that I was staying in swank hotel I decided to sleep in a little, climb the hill across the road and leave later in the day straight back to Shanghai. Coming back on a dusty highway but with more trucks then ever I spent most of time trying not to eat road dirt. In Australia young guys will have techno blasting from their cars with the bass vibrating and setting off alarms of parked cars. Not in China though, so when I started to hear music gradually coming closer there was something strange about it. It sounded more like a big band and was getting louder, too loud for a Chinese car radio with that tinny sound. Unless someone had such a great speaker set up to give a realistic sound because you can hear the individual trumpets, cymbals and etc. To explain how such clarity of sound can occur from a vehicle was to not waste your money on a state of the art car stereo but just put the actual band itself on the back of the truck. With conductor waving his baton and about ten or so band members on the tray of a truck practicing.
As leaving Shanghai was painful enough in the daytime of getting lost, my return was at night and even more stressful because coming from a new direction. Directions from the Chinese was not that helpful, some would point me in one direction and straight away the other would contradict his friend and end up arguing with each other. Using the tourist map of Shanghai I tried to ask one guy where I was but he kept pointing on the map where I want to go. I could say the university in Chinese but not how to say where I am on this map so he couldn't quite understand I just want to know where I was. I got to the point of almost tearing the map because no matter what I did people just tried to tell where I am going on the map. My job back in art school was delivering and I knew how to use the map so if I just knew where I was on it then I would simply just plan a route. But no, people just insisted on telling me how to get there in Chinese and I can't remember verbal directions in English, go left then right then left and so on. I really need to see on a map where to go for me to remember directions.
Before I made this short journey I emailed family and friends telling them of my plans, "oh, no that's too dangerous you shouldn't go alone." Even Chinese friends were trying to persuade me not to go especially by myself. But China is a very safe country and safer then most western countries that being robbed or attacked was never going to happen. If you go to a foreign tourist area anywhere in the world it attracts the type of people who prey on tourists. But I was not traveling in such an area therefore I was safe because people were too shocked of seeing a foreigner on a bicycle and everybody who I encountered was an average Chinese. I wanted to see normal Chinese places without the westernisation of tourist areas, the harassing vendors and the dodgy cons. I wanted to see where the country wasn't aiming to impress the foreign tourists because this is far more interesting to me then tacky tourist sites.
When you ride for a long distance especially over a hundred kilometres a day you do a lot of thinking and most of all a lot rethinking of your life. It is not the experience of exploring a new world that made this a fond memory but a time in my life where I could just think about my life as a whole. Pushing myself not just physically but throwing myself in a survival situation has changed a lot about me. What I mean by survival is when you are stranded in a foreign country and you have to find a place to sleep and you have to use your common sense. I had an ex-girlfriend who fell apart when she realized that her car was towed away and could not ring the number on the parking meter to find out where they had taken it to. In my situation of being stranded it was real simple but I know some other people who could have found cheaper hotels and who would not got themselves lost in a large city. To reflect upon this journey was mainly to go down the path not taken and as most people go to Thailand or Europe I wanted to do something different. This is the difference to be an expatriate than a tourist because you can go on adventures and the risks you can take. A lot of people travel to other countries only to hang out with other foreigners or just to do the exact same thing back home. I didn't care what could of happened to me because I wanted to do something a bit daring then what I was use to.
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Locksmith Lock Keys VA MD - Baldinos Lock & Key is the largest locksmith in Virginia and Maryland providing locks, keys, cctv, alarms and safes.
Alaska Bear Viewing - Alaska bear viewing at our remote wilderness lodge provides fantastic bear viewing and photography opportunities.
Elk Hunting - Montana Hunts - Montana Elk hunting with experienced Montana Elk Hunting guides. Elk Hunts Horse Pack Trips in a secluded backcountry camp on horseback for a 7-day hunt pack trip, Montana Fly Fishing Pack Trips also.
Bed Linens - Lowest prices and satisfaction guaranteed on high quality custom bridal satin sheets and deep pocket sheets. Many other items as well shipped directly from factory to you.
California Striper Fishing - Bob will take you to the teeming Central Valley Rivers that host some of the California Fishing in the world. Half day and full day trips can be booked for the American, Sacramento and Feather Rivers.
Los Angeles Self Storage Pods - A new concept of Self Storage & Moving Storage containers which is convenient, user-friendly, reliable & low cost. In 3 simple steps & your timetable store your valuable items in sturdy modular storage pods.
